Advances in Yeast Bioactive Substances and Their Cosmetic Efficacy

doi:10.19586/j.2095-2341.2023.0013

Current Biotechnology ›› 2023, Vol. 13 ›› Issue (3): 345-352.DOI: 10.19586/j.2095-2341.2023.0013

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Advances in Yeast Bioactive Substances and Their Cosmetic Efficacy

Jiasheng BAO(), Bingzhen PAN, Qiwu QIAO, Huizhi LIU, Suhua PAN

Guangzhou Customs Technology Center，Guangzhou 510623，China

Received:2023-02-13 Accepted:2023-03-10 Online:2023-05-25 Published:2023-06-12

酵母生物活性物质及其化妆品功效研究进展

鲍佳生(), 潘丙珍, 乔栖梧, 刘慧智, 潘素华

广州海关技术中心，广州 510623

作者简介:鲍佳生 E-mail: gasheng@163.com
基金资助:
广州海关科研项目(2022GZCK06)

Abstract

Abstract:

With the implementation of Cosmetic Supervision and Adminstration Regulation and its supporting documents， there are more specific requirements for the safety and efficacy of cosmetics. Because yeast can synthesize various bioactive substances with high safety， using yeast to obtain effective raw materials for cosmetics has become an innovation breakthrough in the industry. In this review， the research progress of yeast as a cell factory to produce bioactive sugars， peptides， vitamins， terpenoids and other natural products was summarized. The effects of yeast extract and bioactive substances in yeast on whitening， moisturizing， sunscreen， anti-aging and other cosmetics were introduced. The development and application of yeast as raw material of cosmetics were also prospected.

Key words: yeast, bioactive substances, cosmetic efficacy

摘要：

随着《化妆品监督管理条例》及其配套文件的实施，对化妆品原料安全性和功效性都提出了更具体的要求。酵母能够合成多种生物活性物质且安全性高，利用酵母来获取化妆品功效原料已成为化妆品行业的创新突破口。概述了酵母作为细胞工厂生产活性糖类、多肽类、萜类、维生素、多酚类等天然产物方面的研究进展，梳理总结了酵母提取物以及酵母相关生物活性物质的美白、保湿、舒缓、防晒、抗皱等多种化妆品功效，并展望了酵母在化妆品原料领域的开发和应用前景。

关键词: 酵母, 生物活性物质, 化妆品功效

CLC Number:

Q939.97

Jiasheng BAO, Bingzhen PAN, Qiwu QIAO, Huizhi LIU, Suhua PAN. Advances in Yeast Bioactive Substances and Their Cosmetic Efficacy[J]. Current Biotechnology, 2023, 13(3): 345-352.

鲍佳生, 潘丙珍, 乔栖梧, 刘慧智, 潘素华. 酵母生物活性物质及其化妆品功效研究进展[J]. 生物技术进展, 2023, 13(3): 345-352.

Figures/Tables 2

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活性物质	酵母种类	合成生物学改造策略	产量/(mg·L^-1)	参考文献
海藻糖	解脂耶氏酵母	解脂耶氏酵母细胞表面展示海藻糖合成酶TreS	219 000.0	[16]
谷胱甘肽	毕赤酵母	整合串联表达来源于酿酒酵母的Scgsh1和Scgsh2基因	2 000.0	[21]
核黄素	无名假丝酵母	过表达sef1和imh3基因，并利用经典的诱变方法	1 026.0±50.0	[26]
生育三烯酚	酿酒酵母	将来自光合生物的异源基因与内源莽草酸途径和甲羟戊酸途径相结合	320.0	[28]
视黄醇	酿酒酵母	引入β-胡萝卜素双加氧酶基因blh，增强前体GGPP和辅酶因子NADPH供应，共表达具有视黄醛还原能力的内源性酶Env9与异源性酶ybbO	2 479.3	[29]
角鲨烯	酿酒酵母	通过组成型启动子来调控角鲨烯生物合成途径中的基因表达	304.2	[32]
角鲨烯	解脂耶氏酵母	过表达角鲨烯合成酶、HMG-CoA还原酶、甘露醇脱氢酶或ATP柠檬酸裂解酶	502.7	[33]
β-胡萝卜素	酿酒酵母	表达来自解脂耶氏酵母的脂肪酶基因（lip2、lip7和lip8），引入红法夫酵母中β-胡萝卜素生物合成途径的crtI、crtYB和crtE基因	477.9	[41]
虾青素	解脂耶氏酵母	融合来自副球菌属(Paracoccus sp.)的CrtW和雨生红球藻(Haematococcus pluvialis)的CrtZ，定位到脂质体、内质网和过氧化物酶体等亚细胞器中	858.0	[36]
番茄红素	酿酒酵母	过表达crtI、crtB和crtE，敲除内源性旁路基因，增加前体乙酰辅酶A的供应	3 280.0	[37]
番茄红素	解脂耶氏酵母	导入异戊二烯醇利用途径，增加前体异戊烯基焦磷酸和二甲基烯丙基焦磷酸供应，过表达异戊烯焦磷酸异构酶Idi、法尼基焦磷酸合成酶Erg20	4 200.0	[42]
白藜芦醇	酿酒酵母	过表达白藜芦醇苯丙氨酸解氨酶AtPAL2、肉桂酸羟化酶AtC4H、对香豆素-CoA连接酶At4CL2和白藜芦醇合成酶VvVST1、优化细胞色素P450单加氧酶电子传递	800.0	[39]

活性物质	酵母种类	合成生物学改造策略	产量/(mg·L^-1)	参考文献
海藻糖	解脂耶氏酵母	解脂耶氏酵母细胞表面展示海藻糖合成酶TreS	219 000.0	[16]
谷胱甘肽	毕赤酵母	整合串联表达来源于酿酒酵母的Scgsh1和Scgsh2基因	2 000.0	[21]
核黄素	无名假丝酵母	过表达sef1和imh3基因，并利用经典的诱变方法	1 026.0±50.0	[26]
生育三烯酚	酿酒酵母	将来自光合生物的异源基因与内源莽草酸途径和甲羟戊酸途径相结合	320.0	[28]
视黄醇	酿酒酵母	引入β-胡萝卜素双加氧酶基因blh，增强前体GGPP和辅酶因子NADPH供应，共表达具有视黄醛还原能力的内源性酶Env9与异源性酶ybbO	2 479.3	[29]
角鲨烯	酿酒酵母	通过组成型启动子来调控角鲨烯生物合成途径中的基因表达	304.2	[32]
角鲨烯	解脂耶氏酵母	过表达角鲨烯合成酶、HMG-CoA还原酶、甘露醇脱氢酶或ATP柠檬酸裂解酶	502.7	[33]
β-胡萝卜素	酿酒酵母	表达来自解脂耶氏酵母的脂肪酶基因（lip2、lip7和lip8），引入红法夫酵母中β-胡萝卜素生物合成途径的crtI、crtYB和crtE基因	477.9	[41]
虾青素	解脂耶氏酵母	融合来自副球菌属(Paracoccus sp.)的CrtW和雨生红球藻(Haematococcus pluvialis)的CrtZ，定位到脂质体、内质网和过氧化物酶体等亚细胞器中	858.0	[36]
番茄红素	酿酒酵母	过表达crtI、crtB和crtE，敲除内源性旁路基因，增加前体乙酰辅酶A的供应	3 280.0	[37]
番茄红素	解脂耶氏酵母	导入异戊二烯醇利用途径，增加前体异戊烯基焦磷酸和二甲基烯丙基焦磷酸供应，过表达异戊烯焦磷酸异构酶Idi、法尼基焦磷酸合成酶Erg20	4 200.0	[42]
白藜芦醇	酿酒酵母	过表达白藜芦醇苯丙氨酸解氨酶AtPAL2、肉桂酸羟化酶AtC4H、对香豆素-CoA连接酶At4CL2和白藜芦醇合成酶VvVST1、优化细胞色素P450单加氧酶电子传递	800.0	[39]

活性成分	具有功效	评价方法或模型	参数指标	参考文献
β-葡聚糖	保湿	人体功效试验	水合率	[47]
酵母多肽	美白	生化酶法	抑制酪氨酸酶活性	[49]
白藜芦醇	美白	尤卡坦猪/豚鼠模型	色素减退和皮肤变亮程度	[50-51]
多肽	淡化黑眼圈	人体功效试验	角质层水分含量值、皮肤ITA°值	[53]
富硒多肽	修复	细胞模型	H₂O₂诱导的细胞毒性保护作用	[54]
类胡萝卜素	防晒	细胞模型	乳酸脱氢酶活性和丙二醛含量	[55]
角鲨烯、维生素E	抗衰老	离体猪皮组织法	SOD、GSH-Px、CAT等酶活力	[56]
酵母多肽	防脱发作用	人体临床评估	头发密度、掉发数量	[57]

活性成分	具有功效	评价方法或模型	参数指标	参考文献
β-葡聚糖	保湿	人体功效试验	水合率	[47]
酵母多肽	美白	生化酶法	抑制酪氨酸酶活性	[49]
白藜芦醇	美白	尤卡坦猪/豚鼠模型	色素减退和皮肤变亮程度	[50-51]
多肽	淡化黑眼圈	人体功效试验	角质层水分含量值、皮肤ITA°值	[53]
富硒多肽	修复	细胞模型	H₂O₂诱导的细胞毒性保护作用	[54]
类胡萝卜素	防晒	细胞模型	乳酸脱氢酶活性和丙二醛含量	[55]
角鲨烯、维生素E	抗衰老	离体猪皮组织法	SOD、GSH-Px、CAT等酶活力	[56]
酵母多肽	防脱发作用	人体临床评估	头发密度、掉发数量	[57]

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Advances in Yeast Bioactive Substances and Their Cosmetic Efficacy

酵母生物活性物质及其化妆品功效研究进展

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